Behind Bacalar: Mexico’s Best Kept Secret

Behind Bacalar: Mexico’s Best Kept Secret

My most requested travel itinerary yet—and maybe a bit of a counterintuitive title. Welcome to Bacalar, a small town in southeastern Mexico near the Belize border. This guide will take you through the stunning Lagoon of Seven Colors and the hidden gems that make this place so special.

But before we dive in, here’s something to keep in mind: places like this don’t stay untouched by accident. Bacalar’s beauty exists because the locals and visitors share a common goal—to protect its nature, respect its waters, and preserve the magic that makes it so special.

Bacalar isn’t on the ocean—it’s a lagoon, fed by a series of cenotes of varying depths that create its stunning shades of blue and turquoise. While we were among the few Americans in sight, most of the crowd around us was a mix of locals, European travelers (mainly German), and vacationing Mexicans from all over the country.

We visited Bacalar for our “babymoon”—a millennial’s excuse for a second honeymoon. I was six months pregnant, which turned out to be the perfect time to go. I had tons of energy to explore, was out of the “bloated” phase so people could actually tell I was pregnant, and being lakeside with a mocktail in hand while choosing between a massage, a lake paddle, a sound bath, or a shopping day was exactly what I needed.

THINGS TO KNOW

  • Currency: The official currency in Bacalar is Mexican Pesos (MXN). Most restaurants accept credit cards, but having cash on hand is helpful for street vendors, taxis, rentals, and smaller shops. There are banks with ATMs in the city center if you need to pull out cash.
  • Weather: We went in December where the temperatures typically range from 67°F to 80°F. Rainfall was common but usually brief, creating the perfect tropical escape. I loved listening to the sound of the jungle when it rained. The hottest period is generally in May, temperatures often reach the high 80s°F. The coolest period occurs in January, with temperatures occasionally dropping to the low 60s°F.
  • Clothing: Bacalar may not be a traditional “beach town,” but the vibe is just as relaxed. Casual, breezy outfits are the norm, with most people wearing swimsuits underneath their daywear for easy access to the lagoon. At night, while the atmosphere remains laid-back, you’ll see people dressing up a bit more—especially for dinners or live music spots. I mostly wore light, breathable pants at night to help keep mosquitoes at bay. Bacalar’s style is similar to Tulum, just a few notches more low-key.
    • Footwear tip: The streets can be bumpy, with potholes and occasional mud from rain, so plan accordingly.
  • Lagoon is Closed on Wednesdays: To protect Bacalar’s delicate ecosystem, the town has designated Wednesdays as a weekly rest day for the lagoon. Boat tours and other water activities are not permitted, so be sure to plan your excursions accordingly. Swimming is still allowed, but I recommend using this day to explore Bacalar’s charming town, visit nearby cenotes, or check out the local restaurants and shops.
  • Stromatolites: These ancient structures are among the oldest living fossils on Earth. To preserve them, it’s essential to use reef-safe sunscreen or avoid sunscreen all together if you can. Touching or stepping on stromatolites can cause irreversible damage to these fragile formations.
  • Communication: Spanish the main language spoken amongst some broken english. Download the app Translate Now which can play translations out loud in Spanish if you need to communicate with someone.
  • Affordability: Bacalar is SO affordable. Breakfast for two can often cost under $25 USD, and even upscale dinners are reasonably priced. You’ll find that resorts and beach clubs have higher prices for food and beverages.

Transportation

Airports:

  • Tulum Airport (TQO): 2hr 30min drive to Bacalar. This airport recently opened and now offers direct flights from the U.S. with airlines like Aeromexico, Delta, and American Airlines.
  • Chetumal International Airport (CTM): 37min drive to Bacalar. There are no direct flights from the U.S. to Chetumal, but if you’re flying within Mexico, this is the closest airport. If I still lived in San Diego, I’d probably fly out of Tijuana airport to Chetumal – flights are a lot cheaper
  • Cancun Airport: 4hr 12min drive to Bacalar. Until recently, Cancún was the main access point for reaching Bacalar—part of the reason this spot has remained such a hidden gem.

You can find private transports, shuttles, or taxis for all of the above. We used J&J Tours & Transportation. We booked via WhatsApp, and communication was clear and easy. Our driver, Chewy, was amazing—punctual, friendly, and professional. We had a private van that was incredibly comfortable and spacious.

  • Round-trip from Tulum Airport to Bacalar: $8,500 MXN ($418.12 USD) for 2 people
  • One-way from Tulum Airport to Bacalar: $5,000 MXN ($245.95 USD) for 2 people

Getting Around In Town: Bacalar is a compact, walkable town, and most places can be reached on foot or by bicycle. Many accommodations (including our Airbnb) offer bike rentals, or you can find rental spots in town. The farthest we biked was about 10 minutes. If you’re staying outside the main town or prefer not to bike in the rain, you can book a reliable on-demand taxi via WhatsApp through Taxi Seguro. Just message them with your pick-up and drop-off locations, time, and number of passengers.

  • 📞 Taxi Seguro: +52-983-833-7421

    Accommodations

    We spent eight nights in Bacalar, splitting our stay between an Airbnb in town and the most magical resort, Our Habitas. Honestly, it’s hard to pick which was better—they both had their perks. If you’re short on time and want to immerse yourself in the town, experience the culture, and be close to everything, I highly recommend staying at an Airbnb in town—and trust me, you won’t find one better than the one we stayed at, so book this one. If you’re looking for a secluded, relaxing getaway and don’t mind a 10-minute taxi ride into town or a higher price point, Our Habitas is the way to go. If you can do both, we loved having the mix—it gave us the best of both worlds! From our Habitas to Bacalar Town is 250 MXN one-way (about $12 USD).

    Airbnb in Bacalar Centro: A completely secure compound with your own private pool—perfect for a couple or even a group of four, as there’s a downstairs bedroom with additional accommodations. We can’t wait to return here with our future children! The Airbnb came with two bikes, which made getting around town super easy. The plunge pool was a dream after long days in the sun, or when the lagoon was closed on wednesdays, and the interior was stylish, modern, and well-designed. The kitchen had everything we needed for cooking at home, making it feel like a true home away from home. And the best part? Our host, Gian Carlo, was hands-down the best Airbnb host I’ve ever had. He was easy to communicate with, had amazing local recommendations, and was always available for any questions.

    Our Habitas, Bacalar: A holistic wellness resort perched right on the lagoon—honestly, I thought a place like this only existed in my dreams. From the moment we arrived, it felt like a sanctuary for the soul.

    We kicked off our stay with a cacao ceremony, followed by a 6 AM private sunrise paddleboard tour the next day. Each morning, we took advantage of the workout classes held in “The Shala”, which ranged from yoga to TRX to strength training. We also experienced a sound bath (where I felt our daughter kick for the first time!) and ended our trip with couples massages, making it the most rejuvenating getaway imaginable.

    The on-site restaurant, Siete, is to die for. Breakfast was included every morning at the Tree Bar, where you had a full menu to choose from, including coffee, a daily fresh juice, an appetizer, and your main course—I couldn’t get over how many options there were, including plenty of gluten-free and vegan choices. The staff was incredible, and by the end of our stay, they felt like good friends.

    This place brought my babymoon dreams to life. T/hey even had a deal where if you stayed three nights, you got the fourth one free. I could go on and on about this place, but honestly, I’ll let you experience it for yourself. It’s pure magic.

    WHAT TO DO

    Adventure & Water Activities

    • Boat Tour/Sailboat Trip: Explore cenotes, swim in crystal-clear waters, and book a sunset tour for a magical experience.
      • We booked a private 4hr sunset cruise with The Sailing Colibri (WhatsApp: +49 151 23457858). It was so peaceful and romantic! This tour came included with chips & guac (best guac I’ve ever had), a giant fresh fruit platter, water, and beer.
    • Sunrise Paddleboarding: One of our favorite adventures! We got to see Los Rápidos without the crowds, and our guide took amazing photos. The total trip was three hours, starting at 6 AM (yes, I had to force my husband to wake up, but he loved it once he had his complimentary coffee included on our tour). Our guide even made us breakfast right on our paddleboards, which was such a unique touch. The way back was definitely a challenge, but it was so worth it!
    • Canal de los Piratas: A shallow, aqua-colored waterway with a beautiful structure that was originally intended to be a bar in the 60s, but the owners were never able to secure permits. The abandoned building now features stunning artwork, making it a unique spot to explore and swim around. It can turn into a bit of a party spot during peak season, but it’s still a must-visit.
    • Los Rápidos: A natural lazy river with crystal-clear water, located about a 20-minute taxi ride from town ($10 USD each way) with a $9 USD entry fee for the day and $3 USD for a locker. The area has a restaurant, life vests, and rentals, but it can get pretty crowded. You’ll notice some damage to the stromatolites in result of it. To fully enjoy the experience, I’d recommend visiting early or exploring it on your own through a paddleboard tour.
    • Balneario Municipal El Aserradero is a public boardwalk area with direct access to the lagoon, offering a scenic place to relax and swim without an entrance fee.
    • Muelle 16 & Muelle 18: Two separate wooden piers extending into the lagoon that you can access for free. These are more like lookout spots or places to sit and enjoy the view rather than a full swimming area like Balneario Municipal.
    • Rent Bikes: One of our favorite ways to explore the town, allowing us to stop whenever we pleased to check out the amazing cafés, restaurants, and shops.
    • Tower at Casa Árabe: Get the best view of the lagoon by climbing the tower.
    • Mizu Yoga: Lagoon-front yoga classes every morning. They also have breath work experiences and ice baths! Check out their IG for class times and pricing.
    • Templo Madre Tierra (Mother Earth Temple) – A stunning temple in the middle of the jungle at Akalki Resort. This was closed when we visited so check ahead! They typically let guests outside of the hotel visits for 350 MXN/person ($17 USD).
    • Cenotes to Visit
      • Cenote Azul: 655 ft in diameter and 300 ft deep, surrounded by lush forest. Great for snorkeling.
        • Entry: 35 MXN (~$1.70 USD)
        • Amenities: On-site restaurant and waterfront lounging.
      • Cenote Esmeralda: Gorgeous turquoise water and fewer crowds.
      • Cenote Negro: The deepest cenote in the lagoon.
      • Cenote Aluxes: A hidden gem with fewer tourists.
      • Cenote Cocalitos: Known for its stunning turquoise water and stromatolites (ancient rock formations). It’s a great spot to relax, with swings in the water – closest thing to a “beach” in town.
      • Cenote La Bruja (Witch’s Cenote): local’s secret and much less crowded than the others.

    Shopping

    • El Manatí Bacalar: Artsy boutique with a delicious café attached.
    • La Casita Azul: Handcrafted gifts, textiles, and jewelry.
    • Corazón de Piña: Locally made, eco-friendly clothes and accessories. This store is SO dangerous – I wish I could go back.
    • La Esquinita Boutique: Boho-inspired home décor and clothing

    Beach Clubs

    • Bacalar Beach Club: Lagoon access, loungers, lockers, Wi-Fi, and seafood/cocktail menu
    • Bertilla: Small club with loungers and swings over the lagoon. Known for amazing pizza.
    • La Playita: This was our favorite. Great food, drinks, and a deck for diving into the lagoon. Best for dinner vibes.
    • Maracuyá: Private pier with gorgeous views and great drinks.
    • Blu Beach Club: Near Cenote Azul, offering a more secluded lagoon experience.
    • Bonanza: Relaxing beachfront atmosphere with great cocktails.
    • Mía Bacalar: A boutique beach club with an infinity pool overlooking the lagoon, a chic atmosphere, and delicious cocktails. Was listed on the 100must-sees of Mexico.
    • Suuk Bacalar Beach Club: A newer, stylish option with stunning views, a mix of loungers and overwater hammocks, and a great drink selection.

    WHERE TO EAT

    Breakfast & Brunch

    • Enamora Restaurante & Café: All-day brunch spot (closed Tuesdays) with an artisan cooperative that gives back to the community. Amazing food, a great bakery, and live music—we came here multiple times.
    • Arúgula: Best smoothies, sandwiches, and tiny pastries. So many good vegan and GF options.
    • Chacá: A stylish breakfast and dinner spot built from shipping containers. Aesthetic and unique.
    • Albahaca: A local favorite for breakfast, fresh juices, and smoothies. We sat on swings while eating—great people-watching!
    • Ixchel Bacalar: A fresh, wholesome breakfast spot perfect for a slow start to your day.
    • Madre Masa: One of our top breakfast and lunch spots, serving fantastic pastries and coffee. Cozy and inviting.
    • Picaflor: A charming café with a lovely back patio, perfect for a relaxed breakfast or lunch.
    • El Manatí: A boho-chic breakfast and lunch café that doubles as an art gallery and artisan shop. Vegan and non-vegan options available. Closes early at 2:30 pm.
    • Café Tito: Small but mighty coffee shop serving some of the best brews in Bacalar.
    • Yerbabuena: Cozy breakfast and brunch café with quick service, fresh smoothies, and poke bowls.
    • Casa de Café Y Té: Gorgeous garden and delicious coffee. Their food menu looked incredible – we wish we had time to eat here.

    Lunch/Dinner:

    • Nixtamal: A high-end Mexican steakhouse with an open kitchen, jungle ambiance, and live music. Veggie options available. Book ahead, one of our most incredible dining experiences and the most upscale option you’ll fine in Bacalar.
    • Hijos Del Cocho: Mexican-Caribbean fusion.
    • La Cabañita Grill & Cantina: A casual, local favorite known for grilled meats, seafood, and cold drinks. This is in our top 5 best dinners we had.
    • Jaguar: Lagoon-side dining with tacos, burritos, and fresh seafood. Enjoy your meal from swings or hammocks in the water. Fun cocktails and breathtaking views.
    • Maracío Bacalar: Upscale Mexican food with a modern twist. Thursday night DJs.
    • Finisterre: Mediterranean-inspired restaurant with incredible wood-fired pizzas.
    • Los de Atlixco: Urban street food spot
    • La Playita: A romantic, waterfront dinner spot with a floating-on-the-lagoon feel. Perfect for date night.
    • Mi Burrito Bacalar: Best burritos in town, hands down. A must-visit.
    • Mango & Chile: Plant-based burgers and smoothies with an epic lagoon view. Even my carnivore husband was impressed!
    • Parque Nacional Maracuyá: A collection of food trucks by the lagoon with a variety of eats. Jet ski rentals nearby.
    • Ruda: Romantic dinner spot with live music, craft cocktails, and hearty grilled dishes. Large portions and a great atmosphere.
    • Mr. Taco: Super popular street food spot with cheap and delicious tacos.
    • Siete: This is part of Our Habitas. An upscale restaurant in the heart of the jungle.

    To be clear, Bacalar is nothing like Tulum—it’s a breath of fresh air for those looking to escape the crowds, high prices, and over-tourism. Here, life moves at a slower pace, allowing you to truly appreciate the stunning natural beauty of the lagoon, the warmth of the local community, and the laid-back charm of small-town Mexico. There are no massive beach clubs, no lines for overpriced cocktails, and no party-fueled chaos—just peaceful waters, vibrant wildlife, and a deep connection to nature.

    If you’re someone who values adventure without the noise, enjoys discovering hidden gems, and wants to immerse yourself in a place that still feels authentic, Bacalar is for you. Whether you’re paddleboarding at sunrise, sailing across the lagoon, or savoring a slow meal at a local café, everything here invites you to be present. It’s the perfect destination to recharge, reconnect, and experience Mexico in a way that feels untouched and real.

    Thank you, Bacalar, for the best, last vacation of just us two—we couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful and peaceful escape before this next chapter of our lives.



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