Passport To Panama: Panama City & Bocas Del Toro

Passport To Panama: Panama City & Bocas Del Toro

At the crossroads of North and South America lies Panama, a country that masterfully blends the old and new worlds through lush rainforests and aqua blue waters, while urban landscapes and colonial architecture create its unique cities. Panama is the center of biodiversity in Central America, boasting over 1,800 miles of coastline on both the Caribbean and Pacific, and offers attractions spanning from snorkeling to island hopping and culinary delights. In this post, I will highlight the 10 days we spent exploring Panama, sharing where to go and how to experience everything this incredible country has to offer.

THINGS TO KNOW:

  • Airports:
    • Tocumen International Airport (PTY): The main airport you will fly into if you are traveling internationally. It is about a 30-minute drive from the airport to the Casco Viejo neighborhood.
    • Albrook Marcos A. Gelabert International (PAC): The airport you will use to fly from Panama City to Bocas del Toro. It is a 12-minute drive from Casco Viejo. This is a smaller airport where you will walk out on the tarmac to get to your plane.
    • Bocas del Toro José Ezequiel Hall Airport (BOC): The only airport to fly into to get to Bocas del Toro, the main town on Isla Colón. There are typically only 2 flights that depart a day from Panama City to the Islands. The total flight time is 45-minutes.
  • Transportation: You do not need to rent a car in Panama City or Bocas Del Toro.
    • Panama City: Uber will be your cheapest and best option. Taxis are also available; however, we found Uber to be significantly cheaper and they arrive quickly.
    • Bocas Del Toro: You can rent bicycles or ATV’s to get around the island you are staying at. To get to other islands in Bocas, you will take a water taxi. Ask the price before (haggling is expected) or keep money ready and just hand it over instead of asking how much and getting into a conversation about the cost. To get a water taxi from Isla Colón, simply go to one of the taxi docking stations. To hail one from one of the other islands, just stand on the pier and put your hand out (just like a regular road taxi) or ask someone at a bar/restaurant to call you one. Road Taxi’s are also common on Isla Colón, it should be no more than $3/person to get from Bocas Town to Skully’s area. Keep in mind that the Taxis will pick up other people along the way so the car can get crowded.
  • Currency: The Panamanian balboa (PAB) is the national currency; however, it has a 1:1 exchange rate with the U.S. Dollar (USD). Everywhere accepts U.S. dollars, so there is no need to exchange money. Balboas are issued only in coin form, and you may receive some as change. While in Panama City, most places accept credit cards, but it is always a good idea to travel with some cash on hand. When you go to Bocas del Toro, you will need cash almost everywhere. There are ATMs on the islands, but the maximum withdrawal limit is $200 with fees, so plan ahead.
  • WhatsApp: Download it. It’s used instead of iMessage, and you can text restaurants to make reservations.
  • Tap water: Stick to bottled water. Although Panama City is an urban environment, it’s better to avoid tap water altogether. When you get to Bocas del Toro, bottled water is a must as it is much more undeveloped than the city.
  • Communication: The majority of people in Panama City know English, so you can get by. In Bocas del Toro, Spanish is more commonly spoken. Download the app Translate Now which can play translations out loud in Spanish if you need to communicate with someone. Before you go, listen to the podcast on Spotify Coffee Break Spanish. Each episode is only 5-10 minutes (enough for a coffee break) and they start with the basics and dive into what you’ll need to know for travel Spanish.
  • Affordability: One of the best things about Panama is how affordable it is, even in Panama City where you have a more vibrant urban environment. Compared to the U.S., you’ll find that food, transportation, and accommodations are significantly cheaper, allowing you to enjoy more experiences without breaking the bank

PANAMA CITY (3 Days)

WHERE TO STAY:

Casco Viejo, Panama City: This historic neighborhood is a vibrant hub filled with digital nomads and travelers. It’s known for its charming colonial architecture, bustling nightlife, and a plethora of delicious restaurants offering diverse culinary experiences. Casco Viejo’s mix of trendy cafes, rooftop bars, and cultural landmarks makes it the perfect base for exploring the city on foot. During our stay, we opted for Airbnb accommodations. For our first two nights, we stayed at this Airbnb. As Panama City is VERY hot, we loved having the rooftop pool to cool off in. Before flying back home, we enjoyed one more stay in Panama City at this Airbnb which had a comfy king bed and a rainfall shower. Both options were centrally located so we could walk to everything. At night, tourists and locals alike dress up to hit the town as Casco Viejo is most famous for its nightlife.

WHAT TO DO:

  • All-Inclusive Taboga Island Catamaran Tour: Experience the best of Panama’s coastal beauty with a 6-hour catamaran tour from Panama City to Taboga Island. This tour includes snacks, lunch, and an open bar. You’ll visit the picturesque beach and island village, spend a few hours on Taboga Island, and enjoy sailing around the surrounding waters. Book here
  • Panama Canal: Visit the iconic Panama Canal. Head to the Miraflores Visitor Center, where you can purchase a ticket to the viewing deck or opt for a free ticket to the restaurant’s viewing deck by buying a drink. Watch the massive ships navigate the locks up close. Alternatively, you can experience the canal from the water on the catamaran cruise for a unique perspective (we opted for this option instead).
  • Paseo Las Bóvedas: Stroll along this beautiful walkway that offers stunning views of the city skyline. The path is lined with local merchants selling crafts and souvenirs, making it a perfect spot for a leisurely afternoon.
  • France Square (Plaza de Francia): This lively public square comes alive at night with music, vendors, and a vibrant atmosphere. It’s a great place to immerse yourself in the local culture and enjoy the evening.
  • Biomuseo: Located on the Amador Causeway, this museum explores Panama’s impact on the world and showcases the incredible biodiversity of the region. The striking architecture and engaging exhibits make it a must-visit.
  • Panama Viejo Ruins: Near the modern city center, these ruins mark the original location of Panama City before it was attacked by pirates. Explore the historic site and learn about Panama’s fascinating past.
  • Mercado de Mariscos: Visit the local fish market for fresh daily seafood at unbeatable prices. It’s a bustling spot where haggling is common, and you can sample delicious dishes from the food stalls.
  • Cerro Ancón: Take a hike within the city to Cerro Ancón, where you can spot sloths, monkeys, and enjoy breathtaking views of Panama City. It’s a perfect blend of nature and urban exploration and creates a great workout. This was one of our favorite things we did.
  • Parque Nacional Soberanía: Just a 30-minute drive from the city, this national park offers excellent hiking trails through lush rainforests. It’s a great escape into nature where you can experience Panama’s rich biodiversity up close.

WHERE TO EAT:

Brunch

  • Casa Catedral: Combines a charming antique museum with a delightful brunch spot, perfect for Instagram-worthy photos.
  • Mahalo De Jardin: Our favorite brunch spot. Eat inside to enjoy their trendy interior or opt for their garden patio where you’ll eat under luscious palm trees and greenery.
  • Snack shack: Tropical outdoor setting and a covered patio. Their dishes focus on healthy, balanced meals. Make sure you try their Piña Colada and fresh pressed juices.
  • Cafe Unido: A boho-chic bakery and coffee spot offering artisanal vibes and delicious pastries.

Lunch/Dinner

  • Lo Que Hay: Featured in the top 50 best restaurants list, offering street food with a creative twist. This was our favorite meal we had. Make sure to try the banana daiquiri cocktails. Make a reservation.
  • Villa Anna 1928: A brand new 4-story speakeasy offering decadent dishes, entertainment, and a rooftop terrace with a cigar room. Experience a unique dining atmosphere with a dress code and a no-cell-phone policy—your phone will be securely locked away and returned upon departure. We spent a delightful 3 hours here and had a memorable night. This hidden gem is mostly known by locals, making it a truly authentic experience. For reservations, contact them via phone or text on WhatsApp.
  • Tacos La Neta: Known for serving some of the best tacos in Latin America, listed as 59th best Latin American restaurants. You’ll eat on their rooftop which transitions into a fun bar at night.
  • Azahar: A speakeasy concept where you will walk through the “flower shop”. This is a sushi bar and Asain fusion restaurant on the pricer side. About a 8min drive from Casco Viejo. Need to make a reservation.
  • Coca Cola Cafe: Panama’s oldest restaurant, offering a nostalgic, casual dining experience that attracts both locals and tourists alike.
  • Makoto: Casual and fun Mexican-Japanese fusion cuisine.
  • Maito: Authentic Panamanian cuisine prepared with an asain twist. They also offer a chests tasting menu. Located 15minutes from Casco Viejo.
  • Cascomar: Spanish Mediterranean tapas that focus on seafood. Romantic atmosphere right on the ocean.
  • La Pulería: Known for their cocktails and live music after 7:30pm
  • Corcho: Wine Bar w/ great spanish tapas

WHERE TO PARTY:

  • Jeronimo: a contemporary art gallery and speak-easy bar on the ground floor
  • Casa Jaguar: nightclub with a DJ
  • Casa Bruja: cool microbrewery
  • Amano: top cocktail bar in the city, located in the 2nd floor above Cafe Unido

Rooftops

  • Casa Casco: Known for its 360-degree views and live music, ideal for a sunset experience. This was our favorite rooftop and is a restaurant, club and terrace.
  • Lazotea: A fantastic pregame spot offering panoramic views of Panama City.
  • Central Hotel Panama Casa Viejo: Enjoy sophisticated dining in a historic setting with a view.
  • Panaviera: Located on the 66th floor, opens at 5pm for breathtaking city views and cocktails. A 10minute drive from Casco Viejo.
  • Selina: Modern rooftop vibes with a lively atmosphere. Selina, known for its chain of hostels and bars, offers a consistent and vibrant option no matter where you go
  • El Faro De Casco Antiguo: Offers a unique perspective of Casco Viejo with a sky-high tapas bar and restaurant with amazing 360° views.
  • Hotel Tantalo: The first rooftop bar in Casco Viejo, always buzzing with events and good vibes. We loved going here for sunset

BOCAS DEL TORO (5-6 Days)

WHERE TO STAY:

Bocas Del Toro comprises 9 main islands, over 50 cays, and thousands of islets. The top 3 main island: Isla Colón, Isla Carenero, and Isla Bastimentos, are favored for their accommodations, natural beauty, and convenient proximity to other islands for day trips

Isla Colón: This is the main island and home to Bocas Town, where you’ll arrive by air. It’s the most developed island out of the entire province, offering a wide array of restaurants, accommodations, and nightlife options. Bocas Town also serves as the hub for water taxis departing to other islands. The main road, though somewhat paved, is often under maintenance, resulting in potholes and dead ends. Staying in town means being amidst lively nightlife, with occasional noise from parties throughout the night. To escape the hustle, we opted to stay just 12 minutes outside of Bocas Town, providing a quieter retreat. We stayed at an Airbnb called Casa De Mono right across from Skully’s restaurant where you can rent ATVs and bikes to get around the island.

Isla Carenero: Just a 2-minute water taxi ride from Isla Colón, is Isla Carenero. A small yet stunning island known for its beautiful beaches, lush palm trees, and a scenic path that encircles the entire island. Despite being less developed than Isla Colón, it became our favorite island. Accommodations include hotels, overwater bungalows, and a few Airbnb options, though finding them can be a bit challenging due to the island’s smaller size. ($2/person water taxi from Bocas Town)

Isla Bastimentos: One of the largest islands in Bocas, Isla Bastimentos is known for its relaxed reggae vibe, jungle hikes, and uncrowded beaches. Renowned for its diverse wildlife, the island is home to popular spots such as Selina Red Frog and Polo Beach. There are many accommodation options but I’d encourage you to check out Selina Red Frog, they have hostels, bungalows, and unique room options. ($5/person water taxi from Bocas Town)

Isla Solarte: Located south of Isla Bastimentos, Isla Solarte is one of the more remote islands in Bocas. Known for excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities at Hospital Point, as well as its pristine jungle and beaches, it offers a raw and untouched natural environment. Accommodations on the island are limited, but eco-lodges and retreats cater to those seeking a peaceful and sustainable stay amidst the island’s natural beauty

Isla Zapatilla: There are no accommodations on this island as it’s only reachable by water taxi or a boat tour. This Tiny island is surrounded by aqua, crystal clears warm waters that’s perfect for snorkeling and swimming. We visited this island through a boat your where we had 2 hours to explore the lush jungle and walk around the island.

WHAT TO DO:

  • Beaches (with restaurant/food options)
    • Starfish Beach (Isla Colón): On northwest side of the island, Starfish Beach is best visited early to avoid crowds. You can reach it by taxi from Bocas Town or by renting an ATV – it’s about a 30-minute drive by car from town. Spend a relaxing morning here, swimming, snorkeling, and immersing yourself in nature. Along the beach, you’ll find a few bars and restaurants.
    • Playa Boca del Drago (Isla Colón): Right next to Starfish Beach.
    • Red Frog Beach (Isla Bastimentos): This beach is accessible only by boat from Bocas Town or Old Bank. We took a water taxi to Selina Red Frog and paid the $5 entry fee. Follow the path down to the beach, where you’ll find the Selina Red Frog Beach Club. Enjoy a drink and a bite to eat here, or simply relax on the beautiful beaches.
    • Playa Bluff Beach (Isla Colón): A long stretch of over 5 miles and the biggest beach on the island. This is not a swimming beach due to the large waves that crash right on the shore however it’s perfect for laying out on the sand. You can get here by biking from Bocas town or take a $7/person Taxi ride. There are a few restaurants right on the sand.
    • Playa Paunch (Isla Colón): Right before you reach Playa Buff Beach – $3/person taxi ride from Bocas Town. Best spot to surf on the island with reefs lining the ocean floor. The swells can range from small to medium waves. There are a few restaurants across the beach that you can view the surfers from.
    • San Dollar Beach (Isla Colón): Near Paunch beach, offers sandy bottoms and the most calm waters for swimming on the island.
  • Beaches (without restaurant/food options)
    • Polo Beach (Isla Bastimentos): Polo Beach can be reached by starting from the Selina Red Frog Beach Club and walking for about 30 minutes, or from the beginning of the Selina Red Frog Trail from the water taxi dock, which is about a 45-minute walk. Follow the trail past Villa 408; you can ask the resort staff for directions if you get lost. When you reach a white wall with a black gate, hop around it to get to Polo Beach. This beach has snorkeling, swimming, and tons of palm trees offering shade from the sun. Plan to spend at least a few hours here.
    • Mimitimbi Blue Lagoon & La Piscina (Isla Colón) – Located at the very north end of the island, past Bluff Beach. La Piscina, meaning “The Pool,” is a small bay where the ocean is sheltered from the waves, making it perfect swimming. A bit farther along is the Blue Lagoon, another excellent spot for swimming, with clear water that lets you see up to 15 feet down. Bring your snorkel gear to explore the sea life. Since these spots are far from the main town, it’s best to start your day early. Technically all of this area is leased by Flying Pirates, but is free to enter if you are walking or bicycling. If you rent an ATV from Flying Pirates, you will have access to their jungle trails or it’s a $25 fee for entry to the area.
    • Wizard Beach (Isla Bastimentos): Remote and beautiful, Wizard Beach is accessible via a 25-minute jungle walk from Bastimentos town. The waves are strong here and it can be a challenging hike due to the mud, but if it has not rained, the seclusion is well worth it.
  • Bat Caves/La Gruta (Isla Colón): Also known as La Gruta. Situated about halfway from Bocas Town to Starfish Beach, you can take a 10-minute walk through the caves to witness and hear the thousands of bats that inhabit the caves during the day. There is a fee charged by a local woman for entry.
  • Dolphin Bay: Accessible by boat tour, Dolphin Bay is a popular spot to see Bottlenose dolphins in their natural habitat. We departed from Bocas Town, and this was our first stop on the tour. The calm waters of the bay are home to plenty of small fish and other sea animals, which attract the dolphins. There are many tours available in town that include this must-see destination.
  • The Roam Yoga Shala: Roam Yoga is a conscious living retreat that features a screened-in yoga shala perched high up in the trees, offering an incredible view of the Caribbean Sea and jungle below. The owners, Meghan and Ryan, are from the States and have created a safe and sacred space for self-inquiry, unique retreats, and conscious co-creation. We were lucky enough to practice in the shala during a tropical storm; being in the gorgeous studio while the rain and thunder came down was an experience I’ll never forget. To get there, you can take a water taxi directly to The Roam Yoga Shala’s dock or get dropped off at the Caribbean Coral Restoration Center dock and walk the jungle path in. The water taxi costs $5 per person from Bocas Town. Feel free to WhatsApp them for directions or help finding a water taxi at +507-6988-4140. The classes are 75 minutes each and the schedule is as follows:
    • Tuesday: 9:30AM Vinyasa
    • Thursday: 5PM YIN
    • Sunday: 10AM Slow Flow
  • Catamaran Cruise: Take a public or private cruise around all of the islands during the day or at sunset. Most cruises offer snorkeling gear and will stop at various sites so you can explore the underwater beauty and various islands of Bocas del Toro. Check out Jager Knights, Panama Sailing. or Bocas Pub Cruise for some great options.
  • ATV/Bike Rentals: If staying in Bocas, you can take taxi’s or rent a vehicle of some sort to help you get around the island. Flying Pirates is the best option in town, offering quads, E-Bikes, scooters, and motorcycle rentals. They have created multiple, private ATV trails using nothing but a machete and a chainsaw that grant access to La Piscina, Blue Lagoon, Christian’s Beach, Rock Beach, and Bat Caves. These trails take you deep into the jungle, where you will encounter monkeys, sloths, and other native wildlife. If you’re visiting during the rainy season, consider renting a bike or E-bike instead of an ATV. We initially rented an ATV but found ourselves covered in mud every time we used it, so we ended up returning it and opting for taxis instead.
  • Get a Massage: On our final morning in Bocas, before hopping on the plane to head back to Panama City, we treated ourselves to a couple’s massage at Bluff Beach Jungle Spa. This was one of the best massages of my life. The spa is an open-air cabana where you can hear the sounds of the waves, monkeys, birds, and all the creatures that inhabit the rainforest. To schedule an appointment, you can call or text via WhatsApp at +1 (817) 403-0153. They accept cash, Venmo, or PayPal. This was the perfect way to unwind and immerse ourselves in the natural beauty of Bocas one last time before leaving.
  • Boat Tours: There are many boat tour options in town, easily identifiable by the stalls with signs. We chose a 6-hour boat tour that stopped at Dolphin Bay, Coral Cay, Isla Zapatilla, and Hollywood Bay. The tour provided snorkel gear, which we used to explore Coral Cay, and stopped at a floating restaurant where you can order lunch. The boat picked us up from our destination and had coolers for us to store the drinks we brought along. We had so much fun with about six other people joining our tour. The guide was incredibly entertaining, and we had opportunities to venture off on our own. To schedule a tour, WhatsApp +507-6245-0764. The cost is $35 per person.

WHERE TO EAT:

Isla Colón

  • Skully’s: a vibrant, beachfront bar spot with multiple food stall options. They offer a range of activities including a pool to swim in, ping pong and pool tables, and numerous events and activities scheduled throughout the week. As this is also a hostel, it’s great spot to hang all night with good vibes.
  • Arboloco: Natural Afro-Caribbean Dining in the jungle that offers meats and seafood alongside vegetarian options. Their cocktails are made from local products and their atmosphere leans into the natural elements.
  • The View at Oasis: Located overlooking Bluff Beach, The View at Oasis is the ultimate sunset dinner destination. Complete with a garden with an open-air deck, it offers panoramic views.
  • Dosha: Health breakfast/lunch with salads, sandwiches, and smoothies. They have the best coffee drinks on the island.
  • Ohana: An ocean-front balinese decor restaurant. This was our favorite breakfast spot on the island. From their fresh smoothies and hearty bowls to delightful cocktails and plates, we couldn’t resist returning again and again. They have loungers and other actives going on throughout the week so make sure you keep and eye on their instagram.
  • Pipa Beach: A fantastic spot for happy hour, cocktails, and fresh coconuts. This beach bar and restaurant offers delicious plates alongside beach loungers and hammocks, making it the perfect place to spend a relaxing day by the sea or enjoy a romantic dinner at sunset.
  • El Ultimo Refugio: Tropical dining experience with live music right on the water.
  • Octo: Laid back atmosphere with incredible Caribbean style street food dishes that are cooked over the grill
  • El Patio: Great spot for vegetarians and vegans as they are known for their tacos, bowls, and smoothies.
  • Merén: A stunning, oceanfront pool club and restaurant. You can swim for free and enjoy their swim-up bar as long as you order something from the restaurant. Their cocktails and food were delicious, we spent an entire afternoon here watching the boats in the ocean pass by. Catch the DJ set & bottomless mimosas during their Saturday Brunch.
  • Raw Fusion: Sushi and asian fusion cuisine located over the water.

Isla Carenero

  • Leaf Eaters Cafe: Among all the dining options in Bocas, this one stands out. Situated over the water and just a 1-minute boat ride from Bocas Town, Leaf Eaters Cafe specializes in plant-forward dishes and seafood options. They also have a charming gift shop for you to browse after your meal. It’s an amazing choice for any time of day and we loved being able to meet the owner!
  • Receta Michilá: This restaurant focuses on tropical dishes crafted around the secret recipes of the chef’s mother. It’s as beautiful as it is delicious, offering a unique and unforgettable culinary experience.
  • Coquitos Beach: A beach bar that features tacos, pizza, juices, and cocktails that can be enjoyed right on the sand.
  • Bibi’s On The Beach: Located over the water and next to a swimming beach, the atmosphere couldn’t be more perfect. Go for their happy hour to enjoy some seafood plates and fresh cocktails.
  • Cosmic Crab: With an oceanfront pool and swim-up bar, Cosmic Crab is a perfect spot to spend your day. Meet the executive chef, Oshun, and talented bar manager, Isa, while dining with a view of the water from their dock or the pool.

Isla Bastimentos

  • Mami’s: Great local place to stop on the same day you visit Wizard’s Beach.
  • The Firefly: Asian style tapas inspired by the Caribbean. Their menu changes often as they source only local ingredients.
  • Selina Red Frog Beach Bar: Part of the Isla Bastimentos Natural Park. You will take a water taxi to Selina Red Frog, pay the entry fee, and take the path down to the beach. Their food is delicious and you can spend all day here relaxing on their sand
  • Reggae Bites Basti: Casual Jamaican food with a limited menu. Located right next to Firefly

WHERE TO PARTY:

Isla Colón

  • Filthy Friday: An island-hopping day-party bar crawl happening every Friday from 11:0am – 9pm. This starts on Isla Colón and takes you to some of the best bars in Bocas. As it was off season, we did our own bar crawl but if you’re there and up for a raging party – this is your chance.
  • Barco Hundido (Shipwreck Bar): Centrally located in town on the water, this is the best place to dance the night away. You can see fish that swim through the dock which is lit up at night and they have a live DJ and dance floor and people party there until the sun comes up.
  • La Iguana Surf Bar: Laid-back surf bar with good drink, music, and a place to dance. Party starts late in the evening.
  • Boya De Vida: Take a water taxi from Bocas Del Toro to get to the floating bar. This bar is a bit more upscale and absolutely stunning. They have DJs there from time to time so keep an eye on their instagram.
  • Floating Bar: A floating bar with live music, events, and delicious food and cocktails. They have a different local band every Music Monday at 4:20pm and float & flow yoga on Saturday mornings at 10:30am. Best time to visit is during their happy hour which is everyday 12-2PM.
  • Skully’s: 2X1 margaritas all day Tuesdays, Karaoke on Thursdays, pool tournament Fridays at 6pm, and live music on Sundays at 5pm
  • Tequila Republic: largest selection of tequila and Mezcal paired with delicious food. Perfect place to start your evening before a late night of partying in Bocas.
  • Rush Bocas: Nightclub with an ocean view, DJs, and live music every night. Home to the monthly full moon party.
  • Selina Bocas Del Toro: Events happening almost every night of the week with swin sets over teh ocean, dance floors, DJs, and a dock to jump into the ocean.

Isla Carenero:

  • Aqua Lounge: A waterfront bar, restuaraunt, and pool. They have DJs throuhgout the weekend, beer point tournaments, and karoke

Panama truly offers diverse experiences, from the vibrant energy of Panama City’s Casco Viejo to the serene shores of Bocas Del Toro’s islands. Our 10 days here were a whirlwind of adventure, leaving us eager to return, especially to Bocas Del Toro where the islands have so much to offer. With so much more to explore, our next journey promises even more unforgettable moments in this captivating, beautiful country.